Featured Articles:
- Presidents Message
- Lana Delaney DVM
- Common Winter Coat Problems
- Tara Gamble Horsemanship
- Photo Contest Winners
- Preparing Your Barn for Winter
- Savvy Systems Tips for Winter
- Kids Coloring Contest
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Photo by: Mackenzie Szabo
HAPPY HOLIDAYS FROM SAVVY SYSTEMS!!
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Order your 2010's Today for guaranteed Christmas delivery!
See our package deals - all you need in one stop!!
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Congratulations to our2010 Photo Contest Winners!!!
Horse Savvy
1st - Michele McCreany of Jackson, NE
2nd - Becky Loker
3rd - Cristie Lebel of La Grange, NC
Hon Mention
Jessica Parries
Dog Gone
1st - Kathy Elmers of Fenwick, ON
2nd - April Taylor of Cass City, MI
3rd - Leanne Howard of Urbana, OH
Hon Mention
Phil Molyneux of Baltimore, OH
Rural Routes
1st - Sheryl Langan of Beaverlodge, AB
2nd - Carolyn Scott of Rochelle, VA
3rd - Conchetta Nausley of DeSoto, IL
Hon Mention -
Cooney Family of Rainer, OR
We will be sending out Prizes and Cheques Later this week!!
Savvy Systems is awarding over $675.00 In CASH and over $395.00 in Prizes!!!!
Congrats to all who have entered and Thank you!
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SAVVY Winter TIPS::
...WARNING** There are many types of de-icing products available but most common contain these hazardous ingredients which are very harmful to animals:
Sodium Chloride, Potassium Chloride, Magnesium Chloride, Calcium Carbonate and Calcium Magnesium Acetate, Urea
... Instead of spreading chemicals on your sidewalks and driveways or barn walkways, try a natural solution, like alfalfa meal.
.... if you have a driveway culvert or stormdrain which tends to freeze up and create a flooding situation i the spring, try using a "livestock salt block" in the inlet of the culvert or drain. This will help to maintain water flow in the spring or during a warming trend in winter.
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WHAT'S Next ?
Product Updates, and more great information on Horse Health from the Pros as well as Your Savvy System Ideas....
Send In your own Savvy Systems so we can feature them in the December / January eddition things like:
- breed right or dont breed at all!
- horse health tips
- training advice
- problems youve solved that someone else may have had and how youve solved it.
- Great websites we should know
- Great people
If you think other people should know - then we can make it happen! Send your Savvy System Ideas into ideas@savvysystems.ca
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*** KIDS COLORING / Drawing CONTEST!!!
No matter who is reading this - pass it on to the kids you know!
2 Categories :
Kids ages up to and including 7 years old may draw and color a picture of their ideas How to take care of a horse....
Kids ages 8 up to and including 12 years old may draw and color a picture of their ideas on How to Take care of a horse...
Ideas: Grooming, Feeding, Stall Cleaning etc
The winner in each category will be sent a copy of the 2010 Horse Savvy Day Planner and a Savvy Bag for their Prize!
Please have name, address phone number and age written on the back of the picture or taped on the back with a seperate piece of paper.
Send to :
Horse Savvy Kids Contest
PO Box 3156
Sherwood Park, AB
T8H 2T2
GOOD LUCK!!
Entries must be received no later than January 31, 2010 to qualify!! |
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In the newsletters we will be featuring images that were submitted to us in the Photo Contests. We appreciate the time and love you have of your animals and want to share it with all of our readers. Thank you to everyone who sends in pictures!!
Photo by - Myah Inskeep
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FEATURE PRODUCT
Keep your Savvy Planners looking like new with these 100% Hand Crafted Leather Covers in many different Styles!!!
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November/December Professionals Report..... |
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Welcome Everyone! And Hello Winter! I hope this report finds all of you are warm and well! I would like to share with you an experience I had earlier in the month.
This will be the first time that I am going to rant, and at this rate, I cant promise it will be my last.
I am speaking about a disturbing conversation that I had a few weeks ago with a very well dressed, average looking couple (with 2 teenage girls in tow) as I was working the trade show at the Canadian Finals Rodeo. As most of you know, the products I have created are based on the premis that we have the commitment to our animals to maintain their health and well being, physically, mentally and emotionally. When you own an animal you are responsible for all aspects of its care.
Ok - to the point - the conversation in brief went like this.....
HS: Do you own any animals
- Yes, we have horses
HS: Great - and how do you keep track of your horses vaccination and worming program and vet or farrier appointments?
- We dont do that
HS: What do you mean, you dont track it or dont DO it?
- Our horses are just out in the pasture - we dont do anything with them.
HS: You dont have to DO anything with them but you still need to take care of them and make sure they have their hooves trimmed regularily.
- We dont do anything
HS: then how lame are they?
- Probably very
HS: they are probably foundered too
- Yes I think they are
And then they just walked away.
By this time my heart was pounding out of my chest - I wanted to run after them and do something not nice. But I didnt. I watched them walk away and just got very angry at the whole conversation. Why didnt I stick up for those horses? Why didnt I get their name and number somehow and report them? Why did I let them 'off' so easily? So - this is my make up - my do-over. Letting all of you responsible animal owners know that I made the mistake of letting those poor excuse for people go without the tounge lashing they should have got and I feel horrible for it.
My opinion is that when we see or hear of something that isnt the way it should be, then we should voice it. Especially when it deals with something or someone who cant stick up for themselves. Im praying tonight those horses are not suffering.
But what Im really hoping for is that those people are actually responsible horse/animal owners and were completely trying to 'get my goat' (which obviously they did!)
Shelley Lupul,
President
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Winter Problems with Equine Coat Conditions |
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Lana Delaney, DVM Delaneyvetservices.ca.
Professional Background:
We strive to provide timely and courteous communication in regards to your question, concerns and patient results. We seek to educate you, the owners solidifing that the care of your animal is a team effort and we look forward to being a part of it!
Q: A few of my horses get a scaley type of bumps between their front legs and on their chest in winter months. When It is picked off a bit of yellow substance comes with it along with some hair. There are also random clumps over the body but in no particular pattern. Otherwise coat condition is good and they are on a mixed grass bale of Timothy Brome with a bit of Alfalfa. They also have access to a salt lick and plenty of water. What might it be?
and what can I do to treat it? Will it spread?
A: First off skin conditions can be very confusing and difficult to diagnose in horses. This kind of condition can be due to many different problems such as bacterial, fungal and many other unknowns.
The most common condition with these clinical signs is Dermatophilus Congolensis - commonly referred to as "rain scald" or "rain rot" caused by a bacteria. This bacteria flourishes in wet dirty conditions, such as you would find on a horse in the winter wearing a blanket and in folded skin areas. Usually these lesions are not itchy, the scab is "paintbrush like" and can spread very quickly if not treated appropriately.
Q: How do I treat it? My horses are kept at home and I do not have a barn therefore I am not able to body wash them in winter months.
A: In an ideal situation the horse would be brought into a barn, bathed with medicated shampoo, rinsed well then blow dried off and an antibacterial ointment applied to the affected area. However this doesn't work for most people.
**Most importantly do not "brush" the area this only spreads the bacteria to other areas on the horse**
**Do not 'use' infected brushes on other horses as it can be passed along by brushing
Whenever treating any infection on a horse always wear latex/vinyl gloves so YOU do not transfer bacteria from your skin to a horses wound.
- Clean the spotted areas with medicated soap such as
betadine/prepodyne scrub, leave soap on for 5 minutes,
- Rinse well, towel dry
- Apply an anti-bacterial cream.
- If Possible keep blankets off so you can to allow the hair to air out.
This bacteria is not contagious from one horse to another but often horses share the same environmental conditions and blanket/brush situation thus have the same skin infection.
If the skin condition spreads, the skin becomes swollen/painfull or does not appear to improve in 1 - 2 weeks then contact your local veterinarian to work up your horses skin condition, this may involve collection and submission of skin biopsies, skin scrapings and blood work.
Thank you for your interest in your Horses Health!
Lana
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Tara Gamble Horsemanship TGHorsemanship.com
Professional Background:
CHA President, CHA Master Clinic Instructor, AQHA Professional Horsewoman. Alberta born and raised, internationally recognized horsewoman Tara Gamble offers horsemanship instruction for riders of all ages and skill levels. Her background is varied in both western and english riding and she is fortunate to combine her passion of both horses and people through teaching.
The Difference Between The Leg Yield, Half Pass, and Side Pass
The phrase “lateral work” involves different exercises that have a degree of sideways (lateral) motion, with the objectives being; increased suppleness, flexibility, fitness, co-ordination, development and control of the muscles from your horse. Lateral exercises help improve the horse’s responses and overall movement. They also help you to gain independent control over the horse’s fore and back ends, allowing you to set your horse up properly for execution of more advanced and demanding maneuvers quietly, lightly and easily.
Communication between the horse and rider are often strengthened through lateral work, as the horse becomes increasingly responsive to the rider’s seat, leg and hand aids. Lateral exercises are often a bridge to accomplishing long-term goals, but remarkably are some of the least understood concepts in riding. These maneuvers help to polish your riding skills and provide a strong foundation for you review when problems arise. No matter the discipline, all of these exercises can be applied to achieve your riding goals. The exercises typically included are: turn/pivot on the forehand, shoulder-in, haunches-in, leg yield, half pass and side pass.
Lateral work starts when you teach the horse to move away from pressure. That means it usually begins on the ground - working around your horse and teaching them to move over. For the following exercises it is advantageous to be able to turn/pivot on the forehand in order to ensure that you can achieve independent responses from the horse’s fore and hind ends. Also, ensure your horse is physically ready for these exercises as the goal of training is to improve your horse, not damage or hurt them. Your timing and feel through the co-coordinated use of your aids is essential. Combined goal is to elicit lighter, quicker responses from your horse.
The goal of this article is to differentiate between the leg yield, half pass and side pass. In short, it will give you a foundation to work from. The descriptions below are intended for riders using two hands and a snaffle bit. (Please be aware that there are many more technicalities than can be mentioned here, and often are discipline specific). However, the principles remain the same. Terminology may also differ, eg. in dressage, “travers” means quarters-in, where western is “haunches-in”.
Part 1 - The Leg Yield: Involves the horse moving forward and sideways simultaneously. There should be more forward than sideways motion driving the horse, with the forehand moving slightly ahead of the hindquarters. The horse is yielding to the rider’s leg (i.e. giving in to) and is best preformed after turn/pivot on the forehand, but before the half pass. The leg yield may be preformed at all gaits, and helps to supple the shoulder and stifle joints, as well as helps to gain better control of the hindquarters (when preformed at the trot) and is very useful to in preparing your horse for collection (when done at the trot, or lope/canter).
In a leg-yield to the right, the horse is slightly counter-flexed (to the left) through the horse’s head and slightly into the neck. The objective is to have the horse move forward and sideways simultaneously with the forehand leading slightly ahead of the hindquarters and the left legs crossing over the right legs. To achieve this, the rider uses the seat aid to push the horse sideways in conjunction with the inside (left) leg behind the cinch/girth, while the outside (right) leg drives the horse forward and is prepared to assist in controlling the amount of sideways motion. The inside (left) rein will serve the purpose to maintain a soft flex through the horse’s poll and jaw and lets you tip the horse’s nose slightly – we only want to see the outside corner of the horse’s left eye, while the outside (right) rein has a dual purpose in controlling the amount of bend that is exhibited by the horse’s neck as well as helping to rate the pace and control the frame of the horse.
Common problems and solutions are:
- The hindquarters drifting too far too fast, corrected by placing your outside (right) leg behind the cinch/girth.
- The forehand moving too quickly and gets “ahead” of the hindquarters in which case, apply outside (right) leg in front of the cinch/girth, and use a bit of outside (right) rein to cue the horse to slow its shoulders down.
- Over bending, which leads to the outside (right) shoulder bulging and rubber necking. This is easily controlled by watching your inside (left) rein to make sure you do not cross the mane line (causing the head to bend too much to the inside – and the right shoulder has no where to go but to “bulge” to the right). Use your outside rein slightly to “catch” the sideways movement of the shoulder and control the amount of bend the in the neck.
Sometimes leg yielding is called two-tracking by western riders, with the name arising from the fore and hind ends traveling on two separate tracks. It is differentiated by having slightly more lateral bend (through the spine of the horse from the head to the tail) than the leg yield. The horse is a little more counter-flexed (through the poll) and counter-bent than the leg yield. However, most of the time these two terms are used interchangeably, referring to the horse moving forward at an angle, with the horse being counter-bent to the direction of travel and the front and hind legs moving on two different tracks.
Part 2 - The Half Pass: A more advanced maneuver than the leg yield, by requiring the horse to be moving forward and sideways with the body bent towards the direction of travel, traveling on two-tracks. The horse still maintains a slight lead in the forehand to the hindquarters, and still crosses his legs in front of the supporting legs. It is extremely beneficial to have a solid grasp of the leg yield and haunches-in before attempting a half pass. Your horse must be both physically and mentally ready. The horse has to be listening to the rider so that he stays with you and you can work together in achieving success. It requires a lot of balance and strength on your horse’s behalf. Collection, flexibility and light responsiveness is crucial to achieving the half pass. The horse must be good at bending his neck and body, be light on the front end, and very capable of driving (engaging) from the back end. It is advantageous to have preformed shoulder-in, haunches-in and leg yield prior to beginning a half pass. In order to achieve the half pass, impulsion must be maintained.
In a half pass to the right, the inside (right) (referring to the direction of the bend) leg is used at the cinch/girth to control the amount of bend and keep up the impulsion. The outside (left) leg is used slightly behind the girth and pushes the haunches towards the half pass itself. The inside rein controls the amount of bend, and you want the horse to be flexed at the poll, soft in the jaw and collected. The outside rein aids in controlling the degree of bend of the horse and helps in the outside shoulder position. The horse travels to the right, with the left legs crossing in front of his right legs and his body flexed and bent to the right. The degree of difficulty for the horse stems from his body being bent in the direction of travel while he must still cross over with his left legs in front of his right (supporting) legs.
Some potential problems and solutions are:
- A loss of impulsion. This should be corrected immediately by using the inside leg. However, make sure you allow the hindquarters to “wait” until you can drive the horse forward again, otherwise they will get too far ahead of the front end and you will end up with too much lateral movement, similar to a side pass.
- The haunches/hindquarters are too far behind the motion of the half pass. Correct this by performing some more haunches-in and leg yield to have the horse become more sensitive to the leg aids and increase your control over the back end of the horse.
- The haunches/hindquarters lead the shoulders in the half-pass. Correct this by performing more shoulder-in to increase your control of the horse’s shoulders. Using circle exercises will also help to supple and soften your horse if bending through the body is a problem contributing to stiff shoulders.
- Over-bending can be a problem too. Similar to the leg yield exercise, watch the amount of inside rein you are using and just see the outside corner of the horse’s inside (right) eye. A bit of help from the outside rein will help to keep the shoulder in position and maintain a reasonable amount of bend in the neck.
Part 3 - The Side Pass: A strictly lateral (sideways) maneuver involving almost negligible forward motion. Since there is not much forward motion, it is not a beneficial exercise for collection, but is useful in helping the rider to really gain independent control over the front and back ends of the horse, and improve the horse’s response to the leg aids. It helps to supple your horse, which is beneficial to preparing your horse for flying lead changes. The side pass is sometimes part of a dressage pattern or trail course, and is helpful when opening gates (along with turn/pivot on the forehand).
In a side pass to the right, the horse’s outside (left) legs should cross over the supporting (right) legs. During the crossover there is a very small amount of forward movement created; however, it should be stressed that you do not want the horse to step forward with his legs. To achieve a side pass, you may want the horse to stand in front of a wall or a fence to help build a physical barrier to the horse so he does not step forward. Next you will prepare your seat, leg and rein aids so you can co-ordinate them to have the horse move with as much fluidity as possible. Begin by using your left seat bone to push the horse to the right, together with left leg behind the cinch/girth, while applying a slight bit of pressure to the outside (left) side of the neck with your left rein. This will tell the horse to move his hind legs sideways to the right, followed by the horse’s front legs. The inside (right) rein opens up slightly to allow the horse to move over to the right.
The most common trouble areas and solutions are as follows:
- The horse gets “ahead” with either the hindquarters or the forehand. Most commonly is the forehand leading, and can be attributed usually to one of two reasons. Firstly, the rider does not apply enough seat and leg aid, and uses too much rein aid causing the horse to move laterally with the front end only. Or secondly, the horse is not responsive enough to the rider’s leg and seat aids and should go back and work on lateral exercises to improve this such as turn on the forehand, haunches-in and leg yield. If the horse gets ahead with the hindquarters, the same reasons apply but due to a lack of correct use of (on the rider’s behalf) or responsiveness (on the horse’s behalf) to the rein aids. For this it is beneficial to go back and work on turn on the haunches, shoulder-in and leg yield. This lack of responsiveness will be much more apparent in the side pass due to the fact there is a much greater degree of sideways motion than in the previous exercises.
Through practice, all lateral exercises will become smooth and polished. They help to advance the horse physically and mentally to a higher level of riding. They help the horse to improve their responsiveness to the aids, and benefit the rider by improving co-ordination of the aids and can assist in improving the rider’s “feel”. Done correctly, the benefits obtained from lateral work will insure success in building a fantastic partnership with your horse!
Happy riding!
Tara
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Preparing Your Barn For The Winter |
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 Article By: Ann Compton (as an exerpt from petplace)
Photo by : Kurt Nielsen of Moses
Depending on where you live, winter may be getting ready to throw you some difficult weather. The best time to gear up for it at the barn is before a major snow or ice storm hits.
Hopefully, you've prepared your horses with the necessary shoeing for icy turnout conditions, and cleaned, repaired and stored blankets. Proper storage of tack, if it sits unused, is also crucial.
Air Quality
The proper temperature of a barn is one of the most debated topics concerning horses. It is impossible to recommend a range of temperatures, because by following a precise range of temperature, you might be neglecting to provide adequate ventilation. There are competing needs to maintain nice coats and happy workers on one end, and healthy lungs in the horses on the other.
One thing is for sure. Don't seal your barn up so tightly that there is poor ventilation for the horses.
This is unhealthy for them and can cause respiratory problems
, particularly small airway disease. In later stages, the cloistering can result in heaves. A good indicator of poor barn ventilation is the smell of ammonia, especially in the morning before doors and windows are swung opened. Once you can smell ammonia, the air quality is very poor. Another sign of poor ventilation is that your barn is considerably warmer, often up to 10 degrees, than outdoor temperature. "In the competing interests between human warmth and good ventilation for horses, the horses must win. Most people do not realize how serious the effects of repetitively enclosing horses in a poorly ventilated area can be," says Andrew Hoffman, Director of theLung
Function Testing Laboratory, Tufts University School of Veterinary Medicine. "Recent studies have revealed that stabling, even in the best of circumstances, can contribute to worsening of lung function. This is an insidious problem that you may not recognize as obvious respiratory signs, but contributes to poor performance and escercise intolerance in the training months. Only in the extreme case do you see actual heaves. Most horses suffer in silence." If you have a small backyard barn, open doors and windows each day when you clean stalls so that dust can be cleared out. Make sure your barn has vents in the ceiling, and eaves or windows that promote air flow into the stalls and upward to the ceiling. Your horses will be happier and healthier with fresh air circulating, no matter what the temperature. Encourage Water Consumption Water is always a problem in the winter. When it's cold, it freezes quickly and horses usually don't want to break through it to drink. If you keep a bucket filled with water outside while the horses are turned out, it helps to place a small rubber ball or two in the water – dog toys about the size of a tennis ball are good. They will float on top and keep the water moving so it doesn't freeze as quickly. When you bring your horses in from turnout or feed dinner, add hot water to their buckets to encourage them to drink, suggests Dr. Mark Baus of Fairfield Equine Associations in Newtown, Conn. Your horses will begin to look forward to their evening equine 'tea' equivalent. Use soft, pliable black rubber buckets in the horses' stalls for water because they are pretty much indestructible. When the water freezes overnight to a solid block, you can drop them on the ground and step on them to break the ice up. A small ice scraper like you'd use for your windshield also is helpful to scrape out the last remains of ice in buckets. Maintain the Barn and Keep Extra Supplies Check barn drains, pipes and gutters to avoid potential problems. Clean the gutters so they are free of leaves and debris. If your drains freeze, use boiling water or antifreeze to help get them open. Don't use antifreeze, though, if the drain empties anywhere in your paddock or pasture. Pack any holes in stall floors with sand or clay so they don't collect water and freeze, making for slippery footing and colder stalls. Take the time to stock up on some extra barn supplies, too, like double-ended snaps, an extra gate latch in case one breaks and a short length of chain. In an emergency, you can use a length of chain and double-ended snaps to keep a gate closed until you can get it fixed. It's also a good idea to have a few extra fence posts and rails or boards on hand in case a winter ice storm brings a tree down on your fence. Spread used wet bedding from your stalls on your paddocks or paths when they become icy or muddy. It's a quick fix for footing and provides excellent traction. Spray barn doors and sliding mechanisms with silicone spray lubricant so they won't stick. Storage of Medications Make sure your equine medicine chest is full and up to date. It's a good idea, though, to store medications like creams or ointments in a heated tack room or your house because they will harden in cold weather and can be difficult to use. Check expiration dates on medications and discard those that have expired. Don't Overfeed Reduce the amount of grain you feed if your horses are accustomed to turnout, and bad weather confines them to their stalls for several days. In this respect, you need to be adaptable, since the temperature and activity of the horses can shift dramatically over the winter months. Although this adds complexity to your work, you will decrease the risk of colic and tying up, as well as overfeeding in the long run. "Horses are naturally less active, even on turnout, during the winter," Dr. Baus notes. "It simply is not necessary to feed them more." Most horses are quite comfortable on their normal ration unless the temperature is below 10 degrees Fahrenheit, and then a little more hay will keep their digestive track working. If your horses eat sweet feed, you may find that it's tough to dish up when the temperature drops below freezing and it becomes a hard, solid block. A clean garden claw hung by the feed bin serves to loosen the feed and make it easier to scoop. Some EntertainmentIf a snow, ice or rainstorm confines your horses to their stalls for a day or two, keep a radio playing. Believe it or not, it does help alleviate their boredom. Experts at the U.S. Equestrian Team Headquarters in Gladstone, N.J., believe that a combination of soft music and talk is best. Now, start counting the days till spring!!!

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Does Your Club Need Fundraising Tools?
Are you involved with a club or riding group that supports equine education, promotes horse care, and teaches safety in a fun learning/riding environment?
If so, we have a few products that we offer to such groups to use in their fundraising efforts. Please contact us at fundraising@savvysystems.ca or Call direct to 780-922-5660
We have tools for qualified groups that will make the funds you need a lot easier to make!! And besides - its Horse Stuff!!
Dry Erase Wipe Off BARN BOARDS!!!! | |
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Links And Places to Check Out!
** AAEP American Association of Equine Practitioners for a great articles including : Hay Quality and Horse Nutrition
** Information and ads from all areas in the Equine Industry at Equine Now - Horse Link Directory
Our Monthly Professionals Report features articles and information on Horse Health, training, Equine arts, entertainment and more. Our goal is to provide you with information you are looking for so, if there is something you would like to know, or to share with other horse owners - or ask our professionals, send in your information and questions to wanttoknow@savvysystems.ca
A sincere thanks for your interest in your horses health and well being!
Check out these sites for more great Horse Health Information and Activities
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